the magic of stockholm in may
Hello, you.
Stockholm is absolutely amazing in May and so I just have to share a bit of it here with you. Specifically, how this month began and why I think spring and summer in Stockholm is going to be something that I just can’t get enough of.
So, let start this photo journal celebrating all things May by me introducing you to my neighborhood.
I live on the island Södermalm, which is the southern district of the city center of Stockholm. The island is most often simply called “Söder”. Meaning “South”.
Södermalm was once rural and agricultural, with high cliffs overlooking the Old Town city center and the water that heads directly out to the Baltic Sea. After the 17th century, though, Söder slowly was urbanized and developed, providing industry and housing for the working class. My apartment building was built in the 1920s for working class families. Small, simple one bedroom apartments right in the middle of the island. Which is exactly what my little apartment still is today.
Söder was once known as the slums of Stockholm, but has since developed into a relaxed, diverse, bohemian area where artists, culture, socialists, and alternative cultures meet and live. There is still a laid back, working class feel to Söder, I think, even if gentrification has made the island a very popular, trendy place to live. It is an area that is filled with art, culture, local businesses, history, quirky spots, and creativity. And, even though it is in the middle of big city vibes , there is plenty of green space, trees, water, hills, views, and nature all around.
It was our dream to move here. And, after a few huge, life changing events, my wife and I committed to saving money for years and making our dream come true. And, just a bit more than a year ago, Södermalm became our home. Suddenly, we were right in the middle of everything we wanted around us. Every single day since getting the keys, I give thanks for the fact that I get to be a part of this amazing part of Stockholm and write my own story on these streets and all around this island.
Now, back to Södermalm in May.
Since we became homeowners last June (our apartment is part of a home owner’s association so we bought it, we’re not renting), and then had some electrical issues and a summer trip to the States to visit family and friends, we didn’t get to see Söder in spring last year. So, this is my first May here. And what a beginning to May it has been.
in Sweden, May begins with the celebration of Valborg on the eve of May 1 (a.k.a. the last of April). It is an ancient tradition of celebrating the coming of warm half of the year and the growing season with bonfires, merrymaking, and wild, carefree abandon. On May 1, after a night of parties and fires and old stories and embracing the joys of life, Sweden celebrated International Workers’ Rights Day with demonstrations, parades, and protests.
The weather this May 1 was indescribable. It was literally perfect. 70s/mid 20s and hot sunshine. So, the protests and marches were packed. After a long morning at home (May 1 is a national holiday so you can protest), we headed out into the sun. Amazingly, we just happened to time it perfectly to join in a demonstration parade just as it was starting. The parade walked through the island, across bridges, and ended on the northern side of Stockholm. Though we didn’t follow the entire way, the energy was amazing. The people, the engagement, the call for human rights and equal rights - it was overwhelming to be with so many like-minded people. Lina and I looked at each other over and over again, saying, “This is why we moved here.“
The rest of the day we wandered the streets, crossed over to Gamla Stan, Old Town, and sat in the harbor for drinks and boat-watching. It felt like literally everyone was out and about. The city was alive, as we all celebrated the end of a long, cold winter by basking in the early summer heat, knowing that this was just the beginning.
The rest of the weekend was more of the same. Blues skies. Hot sun. Long walks. Gorgeous views. Tons of people. Delicious brunches. Summer energy. Drinks by the water.
After the long May Day weekend, the weather cooled off, but it was still gorgeous and we still found ourselves soaking in the Södermalm spring energy. There was Cinco de Mayo dinner at a local Mexican restaurant, a few local coffee shop visits, and lots of wandering the streets. I cannot stop gazing up at the sky, pointing out all of the leaves on the trees, and commenting on the warm sun and cool wind. It’s only a few weeks until our summer vacation begins and the beginning of May in Stockholm has most definitely gotten me in the summer mood. But, instead of wishing away the time, my focus is to do my best to be in the present moment, from day to day. Exploring, noticing, feeling, and learning more about this most beautiful city I call home.
Still, what a summer it is going to be!
Alright, time to wind this down and prepare for a new week (with another long weekend ahead). It’s 9:25pm and the sky is still bright. A candle is flickering in the window and a nightingale is singing outside my open window. It’s a perfectly cozy Sunday evening.
Sending wishes for an inspiring week of May magic for us all.
xoxo. liz.